double pipes

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double pipes

Post  Stu on Fri Nov 26, 2010 12:33 pm

I've mostly been working on strings for the last year for other folks and have finally gotten back to making something for myself, which to me is of course pipes.
Anyone have any experience making double pipes? I've made a number of pipes for myself but never tried a double chanter. Not quite true, I made a double bored stock and horn based off the one in the Scottish National Museum a few years back, but that was all doubled holes with little to no ability to play harmony. AND it was a nightmare to make two parallel bores in the chanter so I'm looking more to the separate chanters. Trying to decide right now if I want to base it off the SSP or off my much louder Lutrell psalter pipes, a 5/16th inch parallel bore with very good presence. I use it to play for dancers.
How does one put the two chanters into one stock?
Any thoughts on this appreciated.
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Re: double pipes

Post  Bob Salter on Fri Nov 26, 2010 1:24 pm

How about a stock like the bechonnet:-
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or maybe this?

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Re: double pipes

Post  Yuri on Sat Nov 27, 2010 12:39 am

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My double chantered pipes.
Made for playing polyphonic Mediaeval and Renaissance music. On the photo the long drone is the tonic (6 finger note). There is a third drone, much longer, that replaces the short one, giving a 3-finger tonic drone, thus enabling plagal melodies to be played.
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Re: double pipes

Post  Yuri on Sat Nov 27, 2010 1:43 am

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For that matter, here's my recreation of one of the sets of Avar double pipes, found in Hungary. There are up to date some 8 or 9 sets found, but the only one unequal is the first found. The rest are equal (5-5 fingerholes, except for one that is 6-6, but it is obvious that in this case a pair of fingerholes has been drilled in the wrong place, and would have been closed off by wax.)
The originals are mostly crane (possibly stork) ulnae, (wingbones), mine is something from the beach, probably gannet. It is also slightly shorter than the original (though these vary quite a bit in lenght, too.)
The originals didn't have a stock, they would have been either played in the mouth, or tied in directly into the bag (most likely bladder), as they are in present-day similar types. These range from Morocco to Iran, and from Sudan to the Ural mountains. My one has a stock, but as yet I have not managed to get around to getting a bladder, so play it using the stock as a windcap. There is also a MK2 in the making, this one from albatross wingbones, and is HUGE. Much longer than the originals. It hasn't had the fingerholes drilled yet, as I experiment with various reeds. (in my spare time, so it can take a while.)


Last edited by Yuri on Sat Nov 27, 2010 10:23 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Re: double pipes

Post  Stu on Sat Nov 27, 2010 6:36 pm

Alright. I've not before been able to get a good look at the stock of a double pipe. Thanks guys, those shots give me a lot of ideas to work from.
Yuri, that is one lovely set of pipes! What is the range on each chanter?

Thanks

Stu
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Re: double pipes

Post  Yuri on Sat Nov 27, 2010 7:55 pm

C-G on the right chanter, F-d on the left. I could put a thumbhole on the right one, giving it C-A, but two things prevent it. One is that it's uncomfortable, though, I'm sure one can get usedto it. The other is that I simply found that it's a good enough range as it is for most music i play on it. Both are totally (that means totally) chromatic.
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Re: double pipes

Post  Stu on Sat Nov 27, 2010 8:26 pm

Yuri wrote: Both are totally (that means totally) chromatic.
Nice. I've only made some two dozen sets at this point, all diatonic I'm afraid. Not actually worked out HOW to set up the chanter holes to make it chromatic. Not that my fingers will allow playing with the finger tips recorder style these days.
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Re: double pipes

Post  Stu on Thu Jan 26, 2012 4:15 pm

I've been moving ahead on my double pipe project. Below are the two chanters, the one on top if now ready for the oil, the other will be tomorrow with luck.
The main wood is black walnut, this stuff works great once it has been old bathed, after which it can be glassy smooth, dark chocolate brown and has a nice warm tone. The secondary for the sole is holly I cut a couple of years back. In person it looks just like aged ivory. The metal is a tin and silver alloy; I got in trouble at the foundry for calling it silver pewter. Smile Melts slightly above 500 'f which has caused me a bit of trouble with a bit of wood chip out when I poured, compared to the 385'f pewter I have used in the past.
I've been having a grand time with these. Looking forward to playing them, likely the end of next month.
Stu

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